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 Project CRD MJ: 
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm
Posts: 126
MJ gets some new shoes:
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Got em for $300 locally, wheels are just about perfect, nar a scratch on them....for now.


Got the master/slave combo out of a 96 today, gonna go back on sunday and grab a NP242.
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Here you can see the difference between the 4Liter bellhousing and the CRD bellhousing:
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Got the master/slave, plus a bunch of other junk for $26.


Fri Jan 06, 2012 5:46 pm
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm
Posts: 126
Got in my indicator lights, APPS, and ECU.

I only need a new injector top and some diesel before I can start this sucker up!

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Fri Jan 06, 2012 5:46 pm
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm
Posts: 126
[QUOTE=MiguelXJ;868346]Damn you work fast... :)

Good luck on the project! looks promising! :chug:[/QUOTE]

Not quick enough.

Got me a transfer case out of a 98 today, paid $100 also got the wheel skid plate, and power seat pedistal for a grand total of $130. Not too shabby, I should told him it was out of a 94 and then it would have been $75.

Lotsa junk in my garage:
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All bolted together:
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Slave mocked up:
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A limited lace wheel and transfer skid:
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Fri Jan 06, 2012 5:47 pm
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm
Posts: 126
Ok so these are the engine mounts for a diesel XJ,
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then here you can see that while the mounts are similar in design, they do not bolt in the same place, rather they set slighter further back in the engine bay, and utilize some different bolts.
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Now from what I can see in the pictures of those mounts and from looking at my engine it looks like these mounts might share the engine side bolt pattern, if this is the case then I might be able to get real lucky and just have the motor boltin to the engine bay, boltup to the factory tranny support, and not have to build either of those.

If I am not so lucky(which history would seem to indicate that I am not), then I will not be able to use the engine side bracket, in which case using the XJ diesel motor mounts will probably still be better, they set further back and are almost necessary. It appears that trying to use the gasser XJ mounts will actually interfere with things like the AC compressor, Injection Pump, and Power steering. So right now the plan is to use diesel XJ mounts, and probably have to build my own engine side brackets.

Now something else has come up, if my ECU came from a vehicle with a SKIM(sentry key immobilizer module) then I will either need to get the calibration reset from my ECU, or get a SKIM and transponder key and have both the SKIM and the ECU reprogrammed via the DRBIII to match.


Fri Jan 06, 2012 5:51 pm
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm
Posts: 126
Ok, did a little bit of teardown and started looking at what it would take to get this 2500 header panel to fit.
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So as you can see the 2500 header fits back in a little bit:
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I measure 3.25" deep:
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And I measure 3.25" back from the leading edge of the hood. So basically the header is supposed to sit back flush against the front face of the "headlight bucket" so it looks like I will be trimming off that whole side piece where the fender bracket ties the fender to the "headlight bucket" with the ~.25" gap between the header panel and the hood I think that will be just about right.
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And semi naked:
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Fri Jan 06, 2012 5:52 pm
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm
Posts: 126
Started pulling the interior panels out of the MJ, ripped out the carpet tonight, more rust than I was expecting given the outside condition of the vehicle, guess it was that wet carpet syndrome that got to it.

Lucky none of it is through the body, and none of it is even soft, went around and tapped on all the rusty spots with welding hammer, all if it is good and solid, and basically appears just to be a heavily pitted surface rust.

So right now the plan is to wire brush everything with rust on it, then get some POR15 and coat everything well(after I make modifications to the floor for the newer seats to bolt in), then the POR15 will get covered with the sound deadening material.

Anyone have anything else to consider for rust abatement?
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Here you can see a VERY quick pass(not even 30 secs worth) of wire brush, compared to what it looked like before. I think the wire brush will work well on the surfaces I can get to, its the seam where I cannot get between, or the channel that I cannot get between, that worries me.
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Of course, if this is as bad as it is after 22 years, another 22 years of equally bad rust wouldn't be the end of the world. Who knows, I somehow doubt I will still own the Jeep in 22 years(maybe, thats a long ways off)
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I also found a muzzle brake under the carpet, LOL


Fri Jan 06, 2012 5:54 pm
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm
Posts: 126
Ok did some more work, got the steering column, dash, and a few other things out of the way.
You can see where the front of the newer seat sits here:
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And so this is about where the front of the new seat will sit in the commanche, that little bit of bracket will be cutoff and the Xj seat bracket welded a little further back than that existing one. Basically the new XJ seat will sit exactly where the XJ seat would sit in a 97+ XJ.
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Dash pulled, engine next so I can get the heater box out easier:
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My dog helping:
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Seat forward:
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Seat back:
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Still some space to store stuff when the seat is back:
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Pulled the windshield trim, need to buy an extractor for the windshield so I can remove it. I will then cut the little studs off that hold on the old style trim so a newer rubber seal can be used. My neighbor works for safelight so I can get him to reinstall it for me for the cost of beer. This will allow me to weld some of the mounts that the newer dash/steering column needs easier with the windshield out
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Fri Jan 06, 2012 5:56 pm
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm
Posts: 126
Hehehe, check out what I'm going to pickup:
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I will use one switch for the heated mirrors, one for my foglights, probably leaving 2 extra light switches for accessory lighting. If my diesel ECU has a high idle option I may choose to enable that and get the stock high idle switch.


Fri Jan 06, 2012 5:58 pm
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm
Posts: 126
Well I had been wondering about what to do for a radiator, and the 4cyl 2.5 radiator seems like it was perfect match....unfortunatly no one seems to make a good replacement radiator for it, only single core, plastic aluminum setups. There are some all aluminum radiators on ebay, but they are single core.

Well this was all moot, I was just going to wait untill I came to that bridge to burn it. The thinking was that I would wait untill I knew for certain what I needed to use for a radiator to order one....I have a good 2 core OEM radiator here from a 2001 6 cyl, that I could use, and I have the crappy old radiator from my MJ I could use for mockup. The problem was, the more I looked at it and the more I measured the more certain I became that I would need to use it. Which left me with the problem that if I did need to use it, there would not be a good replacement option.

Now anyone can spend the time to custom mount a custom radiator, or an off the shelf radiator for something like a YJ/TJ, but since I am faced with enough fabrication already here I am hoping for something that will bolt in.

Now that being said I came across something at the junkyard that is either a windfall, or a white elephant, here we have a nearly new, single core(but thicker than a double core) OEM style radiator, $50 is a little pricey in my mind, but if it works out will be a good solution. If it doesn't well crap, I just wasted $50.

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Got the windshield removed and safely stored in the basement:
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Got some tie downs off of a ford exploder sport track(and a 8.8 with 4.10s and LSD- all ready sold :rock on: )
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And of course further probing reveals more rust, what ticked me off about this bit was all the rust was below the seam sealer........ya, the metal rusted out below the seam sealer......grrr, oh well, I got a junk hood that I will raid for patch metal. Fun part is going to be welded in the patch panel with an Arc welder......I got some 1/32" sticks that seem to work OK on sheet metal.
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I need to spend a hour or so cleaning up before I move on with work, garage is cluttered with a bunch of parts strewn around.
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I got these dollys at harbor freight, they actually work really well for rolling the Jeep back and forth in the garage, I would highly recommend them to anyone who thinks they might be useful.
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Fri Jan 06, 2012 5:59 pm
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm
Posts: 126
Got the engine out today, pulled the engine and trans together, and of course, what do I realize as soon as I start pulling the engine......i forgot to drain the tranny, ya, it dumped all its gear oil all over my garage floor.

I swear, thats like the 4th time I have forgotten that. Dammit Dammit Dammit.

so I rolled it outside(easy to push with no engine trans, interior, etc etc) and washed out the garage and also scrubbed down the engine bay. Got it pretty clean, normally I wouldn't bother but it needs to be throughly degreased before I can shoot paint.

Still need to do some other cleanup and tear down before I can shoot paint, though I will probably wait to shoot the engine bay untill later, going to try and get most stuff mocked up, then ripped back out for paint.

this weeks major goal is the get the drivetrain in place so I can move on to mocking up the interior, front end body parts, AC, intercooler, etc.
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Fri Jan 06, 2012 6:00 pm
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