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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm Posts: 126
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Lots of extra metal on the fender that needs to be removed: Here you can see the parts of the headlight support that need to be trimmed: This will be my drivers side engine mount, its a engine mount for something, I just grabbed it off the shelf at autozone because it looked close, it has the right height to clear the articulation of the upper control arm. I just wish it was heavier duty looking. This is going to be the passenger side engine mount, its very similar in design to the OEM KJ mounts, but it only about 3" tall, the passenger side engine bracket sits up much taller than the drivers side, so I have to use the shorter one on the drivers side. This is the Oil filter location, when I got the engine it came with a cartridge style oil filter that stuck way out, it just wasn't going to clear the frame rail, I was worried I wouldn't be able to fit anything and would need to get an oil filter relocation kit. So today at autozone I brought my parts down and started looking at oil filters, of course the larger fram PH8A and the sotck PH16 work, but both are too large, I started grabbing some off the shelf and it looks like the one I picked works perfect, as it turns out it looks like its for the 4cyl XJ/TJs........lucky for me I will actually be able to get this oil filter on and off when the engine installed:
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Fri Jan 06, 2012 6:02 pm |
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm Posts: 126
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Not much else to add, got my passenger side mount finished today, need to modify the drivers side mount in the same way. I tried to start on that tonight but my chop saw blade self destructed, time for a new one, gotta wait till harbor freight opens tomorrow morning to get another. After this I need to make a little plate to bolt the transmission to the transmission mount, after that I will work on clearancing the floor to clear the transfer case(trans and transfer case are a good deal further back than they were stock.
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Fri Jan 06, 2012 6:03 pm |
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm Posts: 126
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Fri Jan 06, 2012 6:04 pm |
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm Posts: 126
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Fri Jan 06, 2012 6:05 pm |
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm Posts: 126
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[QUOTE=impeesia;984554]updates?[/QUOTE] Well peese got me thinking today that maybe I should get back to work. So I started thinking about what I needed to do next which is to get the springs back under it so I can move on with fabbing up the tranny mount. Well I got to thinking and decided that the D30 is just too weak of an axle to put under the front end with 30.5" tires, so I decided to put a JK Dana 44 front under it. Quick search of craigslist and I went and picked up the cheapest one I could find at $300. Its missing the passenger side knuckle and the brakes, I will either replace everything thats missing and go back to JK specs, replace just the pass high steer knuckle and try to use D30 unit bearings, or put on WJ high steer knuckles and brakes(cheapest option thus far and keeps the 5x4.5 pattern) And now I will probably get a 8.8 with 4.10s and LSD for the rear, which is my ideal setup, selectable locker in the front, LSD in the rear. I'll top it off with a TJ locker switch and have everything nice and factory like I like.
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Fri Jan 06, 2012 6:06 pm |
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm Posts: 126
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[QUOTE=MBood82;1136438]It's been over a year, what's the status?[/QUOTE] So I picked this up for my MJ CRD project, I need it for a few different things, but since I had it out I decided to take the whole shebang apart! While I was at it I decided to bust out the macro, never really played with it before but I liked the results. This is the keyless module, it plugs into the side of the BCM, and can be removed pretty easily. This is the BCM its self, it is held on by 4 screws onto the fuse box/junction block. This is the gut of the junction block, when you take out all the fuses, relays, etc, remove the plastic cover, this is what you are left with: The BCM is needed as the VSS signal goes into the BCM, where the BCM is programmed to read the VSS and correlates the revs/mile to the speed. A couple of other things also got through the BCM including the SKIM info(which I won't be using).
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Fri Jan 06, 2012 6:07 pm |
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm Posts: 126
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This is the 96- steering column hole: This the 97+ steering column hole, it needs to to cutout and moved obviously. Not exactly sure how I will go about that. Here you can see that the newer C101 plug hole, what I will probably do it cutout the donor shape and then use the bolt holes in the older plug to hold the plate in place. This is the older style steering column bracket, it will need to but cutout and the new one(below) welded in. Here you can see the older style heater core hole is a little different, but it'll work. Here you can see the upper dash bolt points are different, not sure what to do about those. This is the older side mount bracket studs/bolt holes, the newer style is below, as you can see there are a fair amount of differences. This is the older style door post latch, this is a little tricky but can be dealt with fairly easily. And this is where I think I will mount the filter head: I'm not sure why but I have a filter head with different banjo fittings on it, which won't work in my configuration, so the bent stockers are perfect.
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Fri Jan 06, 2012 6:08 pm |
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm Posts: 126
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Steering column/dash bracket cutoff: Lets do this: Passenger side bracket welded on(the thin stuff at the top was a *****) I got the drivers side partially welded on then tossed the dash in place to make sure I had measured the right place to weld the brackets on. Looks good to me, dash sits in place like it should.
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Fri Jan 06, 2012 6:08 pm |
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm Posts: 126
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Got the steering column bracket in place, modded it to accept one of the existing studs and then welded one from the donor vehicle in place on the side. Then I got the lower pivot hole welded in, cut off the factory nut from the donor then drilled a hole and welded the plate in. Still need to do the passenger side. As you can see here two of the upper dash bolt holes don't line up, I think I'm going to weld a tab to the existing smaller lip and then drill a hole and move the threaded clip in place, then just use a large washer on the small bolt, this needs to be done on both sides.
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Fri Jan 06, 2012 6:08 pm |
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Joined: Sun Dec 25, 2011 1:41 pm Posts: 126
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New tab added for 97+ dash: Welded: Now I need to drill some holes for the threaded tabs: It bolts in where it should now! Passenger side pivot bolt welded in: This is the tranny tunnel bracket, I will need to add threaded mount for it. I'm not sure if I will add a nut to the backside the time time I have the tranny out, or If I should do it via the topside right now. Leaning towards doing it topside now so I can move on from the dash to other things. Need to drill one new hole to accommodate the newer 97+ airbox, otherwise the 97+ airbox is done! Next up is the trans tunnel support and then the 97+ seat brackets.
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Sat Jan 07, 2012 5:26 pm |
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